Italian tradition with robust surprises at Re Federico

Re Federico Ristorante sits on the Avenue of the Flowers, behind the Publix on Longboat Key. Avenue of the Flowers is really more of a walkway, and Re Federico has a corner position with windows looking out on both sides. There are also marble-topped tables outside under the protected walkway. The interior is comfortable, with lots of wood, and harlequin-styled designs on the walls.

As its name suggests, Re Federico specializes in Italian cooking, mixing traditional offerings with small surprises, a treat for those who are looking for something a little different.

One of those surprises is the Carciofini Re Federico ($12.95). Although artichokes figure prominently in cooking in Italy, they do not have as much of a presence in Italian restaurants in the U.S. In this preparation, artichoke hearts are first sautéed, then placed in a casserole with a handful of mozzarella sprinkled on top and finished in an oven. Lovely scents of herbs and garlic waft from the browned top, while the mixture of cheese and artichokes makes for a satisfying combination.

Another presentation appears in the Calamaretti in Guazzetto ($10.95). Again, this is rich in herbs and garlic, with a spicy tomato sauce giving a tangy lift to the baby squid.

Lasagne Bolognese ($17.95) is listed as the chef's favorite. It is a pretty good version of this standard, rich with the meat sauce and a creamy béchamel. It tasted even better when reheated two days later.

Other pastas draw from the sea, such as Ravioli Aragosta ($19.95), which stuffs ravioli with lobster and serves them with a cream-laced marinara sauce, and Capelli Brodetto Adriatico ($20.95), which cooks baby neck clams, mussels and shrimp in a fish stock before ladling it over the pasta.

Another pleasant surprise on the menu is Spigola al Forno ($26.95) which combines fish, olives, garlic in good-sized chunks and chopped tomatoes and bakes them in parchment. When the parchment is opened, it emits a heady breath of delicious-smelling steam. The choice of fish for this dish is based on market availability. I had grouper, which came out really well cooked this way -- better, to my mind, than the more frequent grilled version.

Pollo Giotto ($18.95) did not scale such heights. It begins by sautéing a chicken breast with the ever-present garlic, then covering that with spinach and Fontina cheese, baking it briefly, then completing it with a cloak of marinara sauce. It is perfectly acceptable but did not display the verve of the other food.

Desserts included a so-so Chocolate Truffle ($6) and an excellent Cannoli ($6). Too often I have had cannoli with the taste and texture of cardboard. Re Federico gets it right: The pastry is delicate and crisp, the filling, light and creamy.

Re Federico does not have an extensive wine list, but it commendably sticks to an all-Italian one appropriate for the menu.

Service was friendly but a little disorganized. The young waiters could use a little more seasoning.