Relaxed dining by the bay

Located at the south end of Longboat Key, the Dry Dock Waterfront Grill earns its name, hidden from view, as it is, by a large dry-dock facility right at the edge of Sarasota Bay. There is, however, a sign on Gulf of Mexico Drive indicating the entrance for the restaurant, visible only on reaching the back end of the parking lot.

Once there, visitors have the choice of going upstairs -- there is an elevator for those needing one -- to the main indoor dining room, or scooting around the side to arrive at the back patio. Or, you can choose to arrive by boat, docking at the back of the restaurant.

Weather permitting, the patio has the most allure. It stretches along the area between the bay and the back of the restaurant with a scattering of marble-topped tables that offer superb views. From here, diners can gaze on a wide expanse of the bay, which on our visit sparkled in the early evening. The dining room also offers a great view through its wide windows.

The menu at Dry Dock Grill fits its setting, with seafood not unexpectedly taking center stage. Dining is relaxed here, and the cooking is uncomplicated. Lunch and some dinner items are served beginning at 11 a.m. and are available throughout the day. These include a variety of casual dishes appropriate for dockside dining: appetizers, pastas, salads and sandwiches.

Appetizers run from Bruschetta ($6.95) to a half-pound of Peel-and-Eat Shrimp ($11.95).

Pastas include favorites such as Pasta Primavera ($9.95), Chicken Pasta ($13.95) and Linguini & Clams ($14.95); sandwiches run the gamut from a variety of Club Sandwiches ($8.95-$11.95) to a Boathouse Burger ($9.95) or Steak Sandwich ($14.95). Sandwiches are served until 4 p.m.

Steamed Mussels ($9.95) came in a tomato-flavored broth. Although not large, these were plump and had not been allowed to overcook. The broth was tasty, if a bit sweet from the tomatoes. Calamari ($7.95) were satisfactorily done, lightly battered and fried. The dipping sauce that accompanied the squid was thick with chunks of tomato lurking in it and, again, a little on the sweet side.

Main courses at Dry Dock Grill are available starting at 4 p.m. These include fish of the day at market prices -- salmon and grouper when I was there -- and a number of combination items, such as Shrimp & Scallops ($23.95), Shrimp & Crabcake ($24.95) and Scallops & Crabcake ($24.95), as well as individual dishes such as Fried or Grilled Sea Scallops ($23.95). A Filet Mignon ($25.95) and Sirloin Steak ($20.95) are also available, as is Chicken Marsala ($16.95).

Main courses come with a salad, vegetable and starch. The salads were a pleasant surprise. The greens were fresh and vibrant and free of iceberg lettuce, and the cherry tomatoes had a real tomato flavor to them.

We chose the grilled Gulf Shrimp ($23.95), but through a miscommunication they arrived fried. They were done in a light batter and were basically good but could have done with a minute less of cooking, being just slightly overdone.

The Florida Grouper ($28.95) came as ordered -- grilled -- and the fish was cooked just right so that it tasted fresh with a nice consistency. Mashed potatoes were standard, but the green beans were slightly overcooked.

For dessert, the Key Lime Pie ($4.95) proved a reliable version of this local classic, tart and refreshing on a warm evening. Vanilla Bean Ice Cream ($3.95) was enjoyable and provided a pleasant end to our evening by the water.

Service at Dry Dock Grill is casual and friendly. The restaurant does not take reservations.