Steakhouse's ambience and menu are distinct

On entering Zak's, many visitors will first note the distinct and enticing smell of old wood. It's an appropriate greeting, given that Zak's is quartered in an old cottage in downtown Sarasota. The renovated cottage provides an intimate, congenial setting with its small rooms, slightly uneven hardwood floors, and arched openings between the rooms. Pale yellow walls add to the cozy atmosphere. With its ambience and select menu, Zak's presents itself as something of a boutique steakhouse.

Those who prefer dining al fresco have the choice of dining on patio area outside, which is protected from the street and nearby Tamiami Trail by a small stone wall.

On our visit, a few appetizers were missing, including Zak's own Dumplings ($10), which sounds like a western version of dim sum, wrapping ground sirloin in dough and poaching it in bouillon. Scallops Isabelle ($14) was also not available but was replaced by Steamed Mussels ($13). The mussels came in a white wine garlic sauce -- smooth and silky, blending the wine with the saline broth of the mussels themselves. The garlic added punch to the sauce.

The soup of the day was a Lobster Bisque ($10), which turned out to be a satisfying variation on this standard. Zak's version had the typical creamy body of bisque but also emphasized tomatoes more, giving just a hint of a Manhattan chowder. A pleasantly warm undercurrent of pepper also ran through the bisque, making it more piquant and balancing the slightly sweet tomatoes.

Although diners can enjoy main courses including Salmon ($26) or a Roasted Boneless Duckling Half ($27), the main attractions at Zak's are obviously the meat courses. Among the beef offerings, choices range from a slightly unexpected Loin Skirt Steak ($28) to a T-Bone ($48) weighing in at a formidable 20 ounces.

A 16-ounce New York Strip Steak ($46) came to the table nicely charred on the outside. Ordered medium rare, it should have been pinker than it was. The slight overcooking aside, the beef was of good quality.

American Spring Lamb ($29) offers loin chops that are grilled and served with a demi-glace. The chops were thick -- almost two inches -- and juicy, except for one that was thinner and a bit overcooked. The demi-glace helped to intensify the taste of the meat, while a hint of rosemary complemented the lamb.

Main courses at Zak's do not include vegetables, which must be ordered separately (bumping up the tab). Garlic Mashed Potatoes ($6) lived up to their name. Roughly mashed, they included whole roasted cloves of garlic to give them a particularly robust taste. Sautéed Mushrooms ($8) are just that, button mushrooms cooked whole. These go especially well with steak. The portions of vegetables are sizeable and one is more than enough for two people.

Speaking of two, Zak's carries several Service for Two offerings: Zak's signature 46-ounce Porterhouse ($88); the Cowboy Steak ($79), which is a rib; and Chateaubriand ($87), which is served with a béarnaise sauce.

Zak's does not have a set dessert menu; instead, selections are brought out for diners to survey. They usually include some cakes and tarts. A Cream and Berry Tart ($8) was generous with berries. Cappuccino Cake ($8) was a layered affair, reflecting its inspiration of coffee and cream.

Service was friendly and attentive. There is a good wine list, but not one made for the budget conscious, which might be said of prices generally at Zak's.