Changing seasons, changing menus

Though Floridians are deprived of the dazzling drama of our Northern neighbors' leaf-changing season, October comes, and we, too, notice a more subtle difference. There is a slight change in the air and the light; leaves begin to drop -- just a little; football kicks off; stone crabs are almost upon us and we are eager for a Florida fall to begin.

Restaurateurs and market managers notice a preference for heartier fare -- fresh autumn veggies, simmering stews, denser desserts with luscious fruits enhanced with woody spices. We are primed for enjoying the bounty of the harvest.

Tommy Klauber, owner (with wife, Jaymie) of the Polo Grill and Bar at Lakewood Ranch and Pattigeorge's on Longboat Key, says that even if fall is just a state of mind, it still sends a message to his customers' stomachs: prepare for hibernation!

"In order to satisfy these cravings, at the Polo Grill we offer onion soup gratinee or coffee and ancho-braised short ribs and maybe a hot pear and ginger crumble for dessert," he said. "We absolutely buy locally as much as possible, but we also use fall vegetables from our Northern friends until our area produce becomes available."

Rosas Farms has been supplying Klauber with grass-fed beef from its ranch in Ocala for many years, and the restaurateur also purchases from members of the Suncoast Food Alliance, an organization promoting local growers, under the direction of John Matthews. "People feel good inside about supporting our own growers before they even take the first bite," said Klauber. "And, of course, the food tastes better when it comes straight from the farm to our table."

Polo's Executive Chef Damon Vogell prepares such tempting fall fare as roasted acorn squash ravioli with sage, pan-seared native snapper with confit heirloom tomatoes and dulce de leche crepes with lavender crème fraiche.

Alain Mons, owner of The French Affair on Mall Drive (behind Sarasota Pavilion) for the past 28 years, is renowned for his French cassoulet, which satiates the appetites of diners seeking more robust fare. "The cassoulet is a traditional French peasant stew," said Mons. "I had food like this as a child. I do get more requests for this dish in the fall and winter, since it is a filling choice."

The rich cassoulet is replete with French white beans, duck, pork, several varieties of sausages, tomatoes, white wine, garlic and Provencal herbs. With the addition of The French Affair's crusty French baguette and a crisp salad, the meal is a satisfying repast, especially this time of the year.

Though J Ryan's on the Grill is somewhat known for its Cuban influence, since manager/co-owner Rafael Gonzalez previously managed the Columbia Restaurant for 23 years and The Miramar at the Quay, the popular place has gained a reputation for comfort foods as well.

"We do have special regional and international dinners," said Gonzalez, "but we also serve a lot of chicken pot pies and veal meatloaf. When the weather changes just a bit, we provide soups daily, such as curried yellow squash soup, a creamed red pepper and zucchini blend, and navy bean soup."

For entrees during cooler seasons, J Ryan's, which is in Square South, just south of Westfield Sarasota Square Mall, features beef burgundy, bouillabaisse and seafood St. Jacques, a kind of seafood stew piped with comforting mashed potatoes. "We also add traditional apple pie to the menu in the fall and a date toffee pudding," said Executive Chef Christian Bousquet.

Derek Barnes, chef/owner of Derek's Culinary Casual on Central Avenue in downtown Sarasota, says there is a definite attitude shift in food choices when the weather is a tiny bit cooler or even when the calendar denotes autumn.

"We actually change 50 percent of our lunch, dinner and dessert menu items to reflect the season," he said. "We offer comforting foods, incorporating locally grown produce such as pumpkin soup, corvina with roasted eggplant, yellowfin tuna with caramelized parsnips and garlicky broccoli. We even change preparation styles to methods such as braising, stewing and pan roasting."

In order to guarantee freshness, Derek changes his menu regularly and even includes a line stating that menus are subject to change due to the availability of ingredients. Most of the food is purchased from local members of the Suncoast Food Alliance such as Hunsader Farms, Hi Hat Ranch, My Mother's Garden, King Farm, Flatford Swamp Farm, Jones Farm and Radically Fresh Micro-Greens.

Barnes is especially expert at combining foods in imaginative, uncommon ways. For example, his simple free-range chicken is melded with herb-bread pudding, green bean peanut hash and shaved radish, and his fig, chocolate and bacon jam is an offbeat melding of flavors.

Whether soups, stews or house-made desserts, prepared traditionally or with a distinctly different adaptation, Sarasotans can discover a bountiful